19th Big River Track

 Back in the saddle, these roads look familiar…… there was a bit of a climb from Lake Rotoroa and then mostly downhill along the road to Reefton to find a cafe.

Chris needed a break to recharge so was going to ride directly to Ikamatua I wanted to ride the Big River Hut trail through Waiuta and to Ikamatua. 

Was this trail to be as good as I hoped….

After a 10km gravel road in I found the trail with warnings to say it’s no longer maintained, starting to sound promising, I hit the trail it was rough with golf and tennis ball sized rocks sometimes bedded in sometimes loose, lots of uphill but fast downhill my smile couldn’t get any wider flying through beach trees, my ponamu necklace beating off my chest like a heartbeat, no time to think as I picked the quickest lines through the rocks trying not to blow a tyre in the process. The track to the Big River Hut was a 4wd drive track changing from rocky to mushy beech tree sections going up and downhill. A couple of kms out from the hut I could feel fatigue starting to appear the boulders I was previously missing I kept hitting I knew it would be time for food at the hut.

The Big River Hut was a typical DOC hut perched on a small ridge over looking the old mining relics but what a spot…

will this be the best track of the trip? 

After lifting my bike over the metal gates twice I was on the right track a tight single track more like a tramping track than anything else. I had some more up hill to slog out, up the washed out trail ditches trying to avoid my fork bags hitting the sides and stopping all momentum. The trail started quite open, going along a board walk through a long boggy section but it soon tightened up and ended up siding along the hills in and out with creeks running through the valleys and drop offs around the bluffs.  Good fun!!! The up hill slog rolled into a downhill with my bell telling me every time a hit a sharp bump.

At one point the trail joined into a washed out stream bed which I had to push up to continue, this trail would challenge many riders and For some it was a good choice to go around. The trail reached its highest point and started to flow to Waiuta. This was awesome it was starting to get darker in the forest and I was hoping the carrots I had in my lunch salad would help . O shit duck low branch. The trail dove in and out as it sidled the hills and every now and then the trees would open up and the light would come in, it wasn’t that dark yet. I had finally found the washed out sections and they were definitely washed out there was no going around, I lowered my bike down and jumped in after, dragging it through the muddy slip. Back on the bike racing down the hill the back tyre showing it’s age from the 2000km+ it had done slipping and sliding on the wet roots, trying to avoid the bank on one side and the drop off into the bush on the other, hopefully I can get out of here before dark.

I ended up in Waiuta with moments to spare a quick change into warm clothes and to put some lights on. 19kms to go to a beer, a shower and a bed. All top gear from here through the gravel road, the sealed road and on to the highway. What a run….

17th-18th Riding riding

 Fortunately we weren’t woken by security guards or riot Police and both had great sleeps in the park the sound of early morning walkers getting in some exercise along the track across the stream could be heard. 

Off we left to Nelson for breakfast two cafes later we were full with food and back on our steeds a quick stop at a bike shop for bike lube and then pedaling cycle trails out of Nelson. A stop at Wakefield for two mousse cups, delicious then up the hill through spooners tunnel and settling into what will be our biggest day yet 134kms. Mostly cycle trails, gravel tracks and off highway riding but a horrendous cycle through Kawatiri gorge wasn’t fun with the trucks. We got into Lake Rotoroa for the night I had a quick dip in the lake and was done. Good night.

The next day was straight into a climb over the gravel Braeburn track to Murchison a good downhill section and into a cafe for first lunch or second breakfast, I was famished enough to forget about the good cafe around the corner… bugger. We then left through the center of Murchison through a long gravel road to take us towards spring junction the gravel road got narrower and narrower until at one point it was two strips of gravel between the grass. A clear stream flowed below a triangulated metal bridge little fish swimming against the current what a great place to take a dip in the sun. …

The road got more and more used as it lead to the highway to our surprise Kate was there, great to see a friendly face even better when it’s your wife and she has brownie. Despite not seeing here for 2.5 weeks she was reluctant to touch me probably wise as its been a few days between a shower and a washing machine.

The rest of the ride was a bit of a slog as we headed to springs junction. I ballsed up and sent us toward Reefton when we were supposed to be aiming for Marble Hill Campground. 3kms in I realised and we turned around both Chris and I cursing me with every pedal stroke. Fortunately Kate had a nice sagwala ready for us and we Hoed into that Chris nearly cleaning up all the leftovers. A refreshing river wash and into bed…

One island done

 Last night was our first night in the South Island, Yay one island done. Yesterday we caught the Bluebridge ferry into Picton after staying in backpackers directly across the road from the Ferry Terminal. We had a great run up and down the Remutuka’s through tunnels and down hill forestry tracks the track to Wellington was scenic to start with along the river but by Upper Hutt we weee welcomed by a Wellington headwind and it was still 50kms to get to the city centre. We rearranged our small backpackers room to fit both the bikes in I could see the Bluebridge ferry terminal from our room so we didn’t have to go far.

The ferry sailing was pretty calm bikes were just tied along a rail on the vehicle deck. We rode off the ferry and straight into a hill for a chamois stop over looking the Ferry. It was good to be riding along the coast through the bush something we hadn’t done in the north.

We rode through to Havelock and to Pelorious bridge all along the main road. We turned off the main road here to tackle the Maungatapu Saddle which is a 650m+ climb all up and down within 15km. It was a challenge with some real brutal sections, large loose rocks, we got to the top just before the sunset and quickly through on another layer ate some mango slices and headed down. The decent was steep, quick, loose and fun. We needed our lights on before the bottom and rode in the dark to find a campground.

Turns out the camp ground was closed, we headed towards Nelson but decided to set up camp in a random park like a couple of protesters on the way, it was time to stop…. Despite illegally camping cHros and I both agreed this was one of the best nights sleep we had got.

Days 12 - 14

 The last couple of days have been a bit lack lustre much more up and down farm land we stayed at some nice camp sites and I had a great burger at Apiti, Chris destroyed a can of Chilli beans which bounced off his bike. So mostly just head down bums up with a few stops we’ve been smashing some kms out and had our biggest day so far 128kms. We must also be getting fitter as we’ve been pushing our bikes less.

I’ve had a lot of people messaged me worried about my butt (thank you for your concern and don’t worry I won’t put a photo of it up). Butt is surprisingly good applying chamois creams multiple times a day and changing my padded bike shorts each day to change the pressure points. (Still waiting for an Arjo Auralis bike seat) 60-80kms a day usually all good but a sweaty butt gets a bit niggly latter in the day but not sore like you’ve been sitting on  a plank all day. 

My seat is a leather saddle and it must be moulding to my butt. My cycle shorts are designed to be worn under shorts to save the fruit bowl look provided by Lycra shorts but sometimes when it’s hot you’ve just got to take your pants off for max ventilation - even if your bike shorts are made of mesh and kind of see through.

The other thing to do is butt venting; standing in different positions when going down hill to for maximum air flow to all necessary places this is however not great for setting high speeds (highest speed so far 75km phr whilst not butt venting)

The last couple of nights I’ve applied moisture-riser to my butt which i think also helps.. so that’s the update on my butt.. thank you for your concerns.

So on the whole I’m feeling pretty good and not getting to camp and flopping on to the ground hoping it will suck me in whole each night. I will have now done more 80km+ rides on this trip than in my life time and hills are just mostly another road but in a lower gear.

It’s easy to put time into being concerned about a sore butt, but hands can be a big issue too and I’ve got a couple of other hand positions on my handlebars so I can mix it up and change the pressure points as tingly fingers and hands aren’t good and typically don’t get as much concern as a butt does. Good bike gloves help too.

I’m definitely testing muscles and can’t currently crouch properly. if I’m not holding on to something to pull me back up i’d probably end up on my back like a turtle. So need to keep stretching.

My knee was giving me gyp but I’ve backed off and not trying to keep up with Chris and for the last couple of days it’s been all good. And I think it’s just tight muscles which I’ve been trying to also stretch.

Mentally the hardest thing was definitely the beach and everything seems to be setting you up for the next part of the trip but we aren’t focussed on racing this so we haven’t got that pressure on ourselves lots of stops, good food, water and banter keeps us rolling. Our bikes have been going well so we haven’t had any technical challenges so that also helps.

Looking forward to rolling into Wellington today one island ticked off 

Day 11 AntiClimax

 Both of us found today a bit of an anticlimax we were on such a buzz from the last couple of days of trails which were continuously changing and always keeping you wondering what would be round the next corner.

We got up early threw our sopping wet tents away and rode the quick trip to the jet boat pick up over the “bridge to nowhere” a proper bridge in the middle of nowhere. The jet boat ride was pretty bland but then again we didn’t want our bikes thrown into the water just yet, bikes were loaded on the back for the 40min trip down the river a seamless operation.

Once unloaded we went up to the jet boat base for breakfast - more blank faces when Chris asked for a vegetarian option. (I have been surprised how hard it is to eat vegetarian let alone vegan when away from the main town centres) We hung our gear up to dry along the fence and when we were finally ready to “shake a leg” we rode the 80kms to Whanganui riding past the camp ground and into town and a proper bed.

Some things of note so far:

• Chamois crème is good for nipple chafe
• A wasp that flys down your top and gets stuck is likely to sting you
• Any spot is now a chamois stop spot
• Oil your chain regularly it sounds much better
• So far Chris has lost: 2x bananas. A charging cord, a dirty rag, an apple and a tube of sunscreen
• Your arse is important look after it
• If there’s a chance to fill up with water take it
• It’s much easier to sleep in a tent on a flat site
• a walk can be good
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  

Day 10 Rough in ready

 Having stayed at a motel I threw my newly washed clothes on knowing within half an hour they’d be sweaty again and need another wash. Chris was a new person after a goodnights sleep and was ready to go. We overloaded with supplies from New World and left (OSMs are very hard to find as we are at the tail end of TA brevet).

We had two climbs today a 400 and a 600m climb to be ready for the jet boat at the “bridge to nowhere” on the morning of the 11th. Now I swear we have built trail fitness as we crushed the first climb up a unused gravel road then flew down the other side for some lunch at Owhango. 

Back on the bikes to finish the last 100m climb then we were down hill to Whakahoro and the Blue Duck Cafe. The ride was all gravel roads with some big cliff faces and some quick down hills. We passed a couple of other riders but otherwise we are out of sync with the groups we started with.

A quick toasty at Blue Duck Cafe and we filled the water bottles, this place looks interesting will have to come back and see what else is there on day. We hit the trail about 430 down a gravel farm road into the Whanganui Forest Park. This had every trail terrain you can imagine and the first section up was more a tramping track you can ride then a formed MTB track. 

I loved this trail it was ruthless I had my shirt off to keep me from overheating fighting to keep on the bike. They have started work to form this trail but the first section was tight and we were continually shifting through gears 1-3 to keep momentum and ride the tight rock sections, quick jump ups, small bridges and muddy holes. There was a bit of pushing and we had to drag our bikes under a fallen tree. 

Part of me is disappointed that they are upgrading this to a MTB highway but it’s probably a bit tough considering the rest of the terrain we have encountered through the TA. The trail got back into a farm track as we ground out up to the  Mangapurua Trig. 

The land throughout this area hand been set aside for returning soldiers and their names were on the side of the track but Jeepers this land would be tough and better off left as bush. The last settlers had left by the 1940s and nature has claimed it back.

We smashed the decline here and dropped 400m in less then 15 mins, another awesome trail to do on a full sus bike. The trail was still downhill but flattened out a lot we rode through trying to beat the dark. We didn’t manage to beat dark but with good bike light it’s pretty good to ride through. We quickly set up camp, cooked risotto and ate nut meat ready for our early start to get to the jet boat.

Day 8 and 9

 Today was a bit of a grind the Waikato river trails had some awesome sections but would be better to suited to a full suspension e bike rather than a heavy loaded packing bike. We started latish (My fault). But got through to Mangakino had a swim in the lake got some more supplies and carried thru to Pureora. 

We climbed quite a bit today through back roads and forestry trails had to squeeze across a narrow swing bridge and carried on climbing through forestry trails we got to the highest point and it was pretty much dark fortunately the remaining trail was downhill so we zoomed downhill in the dark into Pureora. The night time Forest was alive and we had cats, opossums and a deer run out in front of us.

We stayed the night in a DOC camp at the start of the Timber Trail, we were woken by the sound of Kaka squawking and playing in the trees and a suspected Kokako, the timber trail bush and bird life was awesome it certainly represents what our bush was once like, the giant Matai trees stood strong in the forest with their canopies way in the air. 

We had a 10km uphill and then into mostly downhill trails, the track is 84kms in total, wow!! Outstanding trails!! we weren’t riding tramping tracks but wide open, mostly smooth trails full of turns. A couple of bobcats were working way up in the hills laying gravel on what would be muddy sections and a helicopter was ferrying gravel way up into the mountains so it’s only going to get better even though it will be a mountain bike highway.

Our bikes are heavy but we were honking through these trails the weight seemed to hold them to the ground, certainly a huge smile on my dial as we rode the “hero dirt”. I will be back with a full suspension bike to hammer this trail but on the flip I look forward to coming back to take it a gentle pace with friends or family who want to ride it, there’s heaps to see. Any one want to book this in???

The trail had a couple of massive swing bridges 141m was the longest very impressive hanging up above the valley unable to see or hear any other signs of civilisation. We stopped under one bridge for a swim in a deep pool; so refreshing… 

The trail then ran out into an old tram track through some thick bush and deep cuttings, after the Ongarue spiral the trail turned into a typical tight rutted mtb trail which ran out to the end of the trail.

We had a quick break at the end and then I tried to keep up with Chris as we smashed 24kms to Taumaranui, we checked what time the Indian restaurant was open then headed to the campground, but as we headed there we spotted a Motor Inn for a proper bed and to clean and charge our gear. Curry, bed sleep done…